Fjord versus Sound

Driving out to the Milford Sounds which are actually Fjords was drop your jaw gorgeous. 

The difference between a sound and a fjord is quite simple, one is created by water (sound) and the other ice or glaciers (fjord). We found a nice DOC camp to rest our heads for the night only 30 kms from Milford. The DOC sites are the cheapest in the South Island for campervans as there aren't many spots that have toilets open 24 hours that allow camping nearby. 

We took off earlyish the next morning for Milford and arrived with plenty of time for our trip. We grabbed coffee and relaxed a bit and went to the car to grab our stuff and check in...turns out we were late! The lady told us we needed to run to the dock, so run I did! There was no way I was missing a cruise and kayak trip on the Milford Sound which is something I was looking forward to before even coming on the trip. Thankfully we made it and the captain was waiting for us but insisted we were actually early. Good thing we ran...ugh. We were however the last ones to board and everyone was already enjoying the hot lunch provided on the cruise we took. As we left the harbor the sights got more and more beautiful. 

Mitre Peak hung over us as we cruised along. 

We even got to the Stirling Falls which claims to take years off of your skin. Why not give it a chance? I ran to the front of the boat for a "glacier facial". I got soaked. 

We stopped to see some adorable seals that hang out on this particular rock adorned the "bachelors" of the sound. 

We continued out of the bay to the Tasman Sea and turned back in to head to the Milford Discovery Centre 

This is where we got to embark on our kayak adventure! The place had a pretty cool platform that lowered you into the water while you were already seated in the kayak so there was no chance of tipping over. The kayak adventure was stunning and the water wasn't that cold either. Maybe it was just refreshing because it was so hot out!

We only had an hour in the kayaks and it was over too quick. This was definitely a big highlight for me on the entire trip thus far. 

We then got a tour of the Milford Discovery Centre which has a 10 meter deep viewing of the underwater world in the fjord. It was pretty amazing to see everything that lives and grows in the area. Another interesting fact about the Milford Sound is that the top 5 meters are freshwater and below is salt water due to the amount of rain water and waterfalls in the area. It creates a different ecosystem for fish to thrive. 

After our museum visit we made our way back to the harbor. It was a long day but beautiful with weather we could have only dreamt about. Apparently it rains 300 days a year in the fjord area. The weather gods have been following me kindly!

Leaving the fjord we stopped at the Chasm and Mirror Lakes for a quick vantage photo opp. 

We made our way into Te Anau to eat dinner and find a place to rest our heads. We went to the Ranch because of their advertised Sunday roast meal for $15. As a backpacker you are constantly looking for a deal and this had our interests piqued. The place was really good and the host even hooked us up with a place to park our campervan! It just so happened that his parents had gone out of town that day and lived just down the road so he told us to park in their driveway. Happily we parked for free at a huge house with an even bigger boat parked outside of it. We were also right by the lake. It was perfect. I have met some of the friendliest people here who go out of the way to help tourists out! It was a great way to get back to civilization. :)

The following day we took off for a day hike on the Routeburn Track. It was mostly a bush walk and it turns out Lukas was sick of these. He has been a great sport on going anywhere and everywhere I picked, so we decided no more bush walks on our last bush walk through the Routeburn. I thought it was beautiful regardless. 

Adventure City - Queenstown

We arrived in Queenstown in time for dinner on a Thursday night. We made our way down to the water after finding a small hostel just outside of town, Bungee Backpackers, that allowed campervans. We found a bustling restaurant and bar called Pub on Wharf that was serving up all the Mac beer selections you could want. Mac's Sassy Red is by far my favorite! We found a nice booth and ordered off the menu, $20 fixed price for all their entrees and they were cooked perfectly and large portions. 

The following day we stopped in on the iSite in search of adventure. Boy did we find it. We left there with bungy jumping booked for the afternoon and Shotover Jet booked for the following day (jet boat in a river gorge). We opted for the bungy jumping at Nevis High Wire. A mere 134 meter jump from a platform literally hanging from wires across 2 mountains. 

The ride out to the place sure was scary enough in a bus riding a cliffs edge and then we had to get in a cage attached to a wire...smrt. So once we got there we got harnessed up and sent in a cart out to the platform. 

Lukas jumped first...He lived and I was next. I tried to turn my brain off a bit but when I was walking out to the edge I looked down for a brief second and had to avert my eyes to the sky. I was scared, the adrenaline was pumping. The next thing I heard from the bungy team was simple...1, 2, 3...BUNGY!

Away I went to fall the 134 meters to my hopeful bounce back...luckily all the gear worked and I lived I tell the tale. I am not sure I'll be jumping off any ledges, bridges, or platforms any time soon...unless it's out of a plane, I am keen on that!

We made our way back to town and the adrenaline high began to fade so we took off for a pub to celebrate our lives. Per a recommendation of a friend, we hit up 1876 to start the night. By far this place had the cheapest drinks out of any where in New Zealand. We met 2 kiwi couples traveling and proceeded to get pissed. I am picking up as much kiwi slang as I can but I still mess it all up. The night was a fun one out, Lukas even rode a mechanical bull!

The next morning we woke up with headaches but a trip to the Shotover Jet was booked. 

We got in the jet boat and it was a good enough time but I was never scared at any point. I think maybe we should have started with the jet boat and then the bungy jumping but it was best we didn't have long to think about the bungy prior to jumping. 

After we finished all out adventure for this town we washed it all down with a Fergburger. Everyone says you have to eat there and it is good but nothing to write home about even though I am writing about it now...

Since we were in Queenstown for the weekend we were really able to experience what it was all about. The nightlife was fun and the adventure was heart pumping. Definitely give it a go if you have some things to check off the bucket list. There is plenty more adventure to be had!

Celebrating One of my Favorite Holidays Abroad - St. Patrick's Day

Hokitika is a small town on the west coast just south of Greymouth and it is a sleepy town. It's name translates to "place of return" in Maori and I know I will be back. We arrived on St. Patty's day knowing we would be going out that night and in need of a shower. Thankfully, the Hokitika Swimming Pool accommodates heated indoor pool use and a shower for a mere $5. After a quick dip in the pool I had the best shower I have had since I have been traveling, no joke! 

I had a blast in this small town at Kaniere's Pub, a locals bar off the beaten path and away from town. The reason we ventured out to this bar was they had publicized their St. Patty's day festivities in the paper. We got out there early...about 4:30 and we were 2 of the 6 patrons at that time. They had Irish stew out and green bread along with deals on Irish beer. 

Presumably after work ended more celebrators showed up and people were decked out in green festive gear. We were by far the youngest patrons out but the people were so friendly that I couldn't help but feel like I belonged. We even had a couple older gentleman do a Haka for us which I videoed for you fine people at home...unfortunately I can't currently figure out how to upload it on my phone. Stay tuned for an update on that!

The following morning we made our way out to Hokitika Gorge which is meant to have the bluest waters and a swing bridge over it. Due to the downpour the night before the river was a blueish brown...not what we were expecting but it was still beautiful nonetheless. 

All and all, Hokitika could be a place easily bypassed but I know that one day I will return here. 

Northern West Coast of the South Island Highlights

First on the west coast trail we made our way north of Westport and hit the Charming Creek Walkway and boy was it charming.

The trail follows an old mining railway and the highlight is the large waterfall and "swimming hole" at the end. 

The water was freezing but well worth the refreshing dip when you are living in a van. We saw only 4 people on the entire trail so basically it was empty and I bet it would be in a similar state all year long. 

Another highlight for the west coast was the Punakaiki Rocks or better named "pancake" rocks as you can see in the picture below.

This spot is right off the highway so it should not be missed BUT I do recommend hitting this spot at high tide as there are about 3 blowholes that will wow you!

The rocks are just rocks at low tide although still stunning and worth a stop, you will get a kick out of the raging water at high tide much more!

Venturing to the South Island...Fjords, Glaciers, and Sandflies, Oh My!

Although the ferry is a means of travel to the South Island, I highly recommend traveling this way as you get a look in on the northern South Island sounds. 

Flying would be beautiful in its own right and I will travel that way back to Wellington in 18 days time but right now, on a clear, sunny day, the ferry ride is the way to go. 

We arrived in Picton and took off to Pelorus Campground just an hour away by taking the scenic/windy road over and set up camp for the night.

Although this campsite was a little expensive comparatively ($12/person) it was a gorgeous setting and include a hot shower! 

Took off from Pelorus for the west coast of Abel Tasman, to Anapai and Mutton Bays, that we heard was the less touristy but just as picturesque side. We did an easy hour hike to the beach and found an amazing secluded spot. 

We jumped right in to the water and although it was initially cold, it was quite enjoyable. I definitely recommend the extra drive to get to see Abel Tasman on a less touristy site and we hit a perfect weather day for the beach. 

This was our first run in with sand flies and these little flies have a very big bite. One of the jokes that the local men like to make is that only the female sand flies bite, usually followed with "go figure!" Harharhar...but really, you won't notice them until they have already bit you and you will pay for it for the next week or so. I started with 100% DEET and it didn't hold the buggers off so we got some local tropical strength spray that did the trick. We were also told Dimp would work as well. There are all sorts of brands out there so I suggest asking the locals!

We made our way back towards Nelson but decided to sleep overnight by the beach at Wainui Bay. The sunset there was stunning. 

The following day we had something to celebrate: Lukas's birthday! We decided to spend the day in Nelson to ring in his 29th. We made our way into town and found some free (read: cold) public showers down by the beach to prep for our night out. We decided to head into town and started out at Founder's Brewery for a sampler of organic beer. Which was a great deal at only $10 and was a neat little spot. 

In Nelson, the iSite allows overnight camping and has toilets open 24 hours which is uncommon in many of the cities, score! We walked over to Free House, a beer hall that used to be a church. It had a cool vibe to it but it was pretty empty and there was no music playing. I am sure this place could be really fun with the right jams playing but we didn't stay long. We continued our beer craft trail to Sprig & Fern. This bar was more our speed. We got a booth in front and played some chess, chatted with the locals, and eventually ordered dinner. The burgers there were delish and cheap! A band came on around 9 pm that really got the place moving so we stayed and met other travelers from Italy and Switzerland. The following day we left Nelson early for Greymouth. On the way we made a quick stop at Maruia Falls which was about 11 km out of our way but a beautiful view. It would have been more spectacular if the tide was high but the waterfall wasn't raging. Overall I would say it was worth the detour.